
The E10 runs 850 kilometres and stops in a car park at a village named after one letter.
The E10 starts in Sweden, crosses the border, island-hops the whole archipelago on causeways and through tunnels drilled under the sea, and then stops. Car park. Fence. Sea.
The village is called Å. One letter, last in the Norwegian alphabet, which is either a wonderful coincidence or the driest joke in Nordland.
We walked to the end of the fence in the dark and stood there, and there was nothing beyond it but Værøy somewhere out in the black and then the open Atlantic all the way to Iceland.

Eleven days. Four hours of daylight a day, and it turns out that's about right.
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