Fernweh — Demo

Somewhere, ahead of the weather Four journeys, eighteen entries, one very tired pair of boots..

Odeceixe, AlgarveRead “Odeceixe, Where the River Wins”

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The most recent dispatches from the trail.

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Odeceixe, Algarve

Odeceixe, Where the River Wins

A last stage over the regional border, ending at a beach with a river running down the middle of it.

16 April 2025

Zambujeira do Mar, Alentejo

Wind, and a Village on a Ledge

The Nortada gets up around eleven and by two it is walking with you whether you like it or not.

15 April 2025

Almograve, Alentejo

The Storks That Nest on Sea Stacks

There is exactly one place on Earth where white storks nest on Atlantic sea stacks, and you walk straight past it.

14 April 2025

Vila Nova de Milfontes, Alentejo

Seventeen Kilometres of Sand

Nobody tells you that the Fishermen's Trail is mostly walking uphill in soft sand.

13 April 2025

Rausu, Shiretoko

Shiretoko — 'The End of the Earth'

The Ainu named it, the road gives up halfway along it, and the bears outnumber the people.

19 October 2024

Abashiri, Okhotsk

The Sea That Freezes

In February the drift ice arrives from Siberia. In October it is a very ordinary grey sea keeping a secret.

16 October 2024

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Journeys

Every trip, gathered — routes, stories and galleries.

All journeys

The Fishermen's Trail

Four days walking south along the Alentejo cliffs from Porto Covo to Odeceixe, mostly in sand, entirely within sight of the Atlantic.

12 April 2025 – 16 April 2025

Hokkaidō, Ahead of the Snow

Two weeks driving northeast in October, from the hills above Furano to the last road on the Shiretoko peninsula, staying just in front of the first snow.

8 October 2024 – 21 October 2024

The Carretera Austral, End to End

1,240 kilometres of gravel, ferries and rain from Puerto Montt to the last village before the ice cap. Three weeks, one spare tyre used.

6 January 2024 – 27 January 2024

Lofoten in Winter Light

Eleven days on the E10 in February, chasing four hours of daylight from Svolvær to the last house in Å.

4 February 2023 – 15 February 2023

Every step, on the map

Follow the routes, pins and detours across 18 stories and counting.

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