The Glacier That Hangs

Queulat gets around four metres of rain a year, and we arrived for about eleven centimetres of it.

The Ventisquero Colgante is exactly what it says: a hanging glacier, a slab of ice wedged in a notch in the cliff with nothing under it, dropping meltwater 400 metres into a lagoon in two thin white ropes. On the second morning the cloud lifted for maybe forty minutes and the whole thing appeared at once, which the six of us on the mirador took very personally.

Then it closed again like a shop.

The valley south of here is the greenest place I have ever driven through. Ferns above head height at the roadside. It rains, and everything simply says thank you.